Agra and the Taj Mahal



On Wednesday and Thursday the 21st-22nd we traveled in 2 waves to Agra for the obligatory visit to the Taj Mahal. 

MVL Prasad, the Hargis' & Tikalskys headed out @ 10:30 am for a "3-hour tour" on the brand new freeway to get there in the afternoon.  We intended to see the fabulous mausoleum centerpiece (as the whole complex is called the Taj Mahal) at both sunset and then sunrise.  But... instead we traveled the local roads, stopped at a roadside restaurant and souvenir shop (think a BIG truck stop in the US with lots of souvenirs, coffee shop, restaurant & necessary facilities) and saw a lot of real India.  We traveled from the state of Delhi, through a little corner or Haryana, and into Uttar Pradesh, home of Agra.

We did climb the hotel observation tower at sunset and see the Taj Mahal from afar.  We also children playing cricket on building rooftops. 

The Ag team of the Woods, Drs. Kakani & Henneberry joined us in the second wave after their excellent meeting with NABARD.  We were up and  at 'em on the road by 6:15 on Thursday morning.  The grounds of the Taj Mahal were filled with people at this early hour.  Locals exercised, practiced yoga, played badminton.  Tourists of all stripes walked toward the main gate to go in to see this 2nd wonder of the world (it has moved up the UNESCO rankings.)

Our guide Vikram was a pleasure! He has a BA in history and architecture, as well as a masters degree in tourism. He was extremely knowledgeable about the mughals, the mughal Shah Jahan who had the Taj Mahal built to commemorate his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.  I think the most interesting fact we all learned was that Shah Jahan intended to extend the symmetry and homage to the other side of the Yamuna River by building an exact replica of the Taj Mahal's buildings and grounds, but in black marble.  From the river side of the Taj, one can view the layout and grounds.  The mughal king was thwarted by his son, who thought this was not a responsible way to rule and use state money, and deposed then placed under house arrest in the rooms of Mumtaz Mahal at Agra Fort & palace.  Each day until is death, Shah Jahan looked out his windows at the Taj Mahal and remembered his lovely, favorite wife & soul mate.

Taj Mahal at sunrise

Camel cart ride at the Taj Mahal

Brahma cattle at work in Agra

Tikalskys and MVL Prasad at the entrance to Agra Fort & Palace



Agra shop

                                                      

                                                                    Agra streets





Reflections on Driving to & from Agra

On the way to Agra from New Delhi, we shared the state highway with every vehicle possible. Most of them were overloaded.  For passenger vehicles, this rural state highway had tuktuks filled to the brim with school kids on their way home, families, wedding guests. There were scooters, bicycle rickshaws, cars and vans. It was usual to see at least 8 people in a tuktuk, if not more.  One or two sat with the driver, 3-4 sat facing the actual passenger seat, 3-4 in the passenger seat, several facing out back. There were several lorries filled with wedding guests.  We saw at least one wedding ceremony taking place. It was held in a shrine at the side of the highway next to a wheat field.  Receptions are held at "farms," which are sort of garden restaurants with lovely grounds. 

Cargo vehicles included all of the above and also horse carts, ox carts, Brahma bull/cow carts, camel carts, people pulling or pushing wagons.  Cargo bike rickshaws in the and around the vicinity of Agra carried huge loads of shoes for delivery to stores--100-200 boxes strapped  to the back of the bike & wagon.  A single small horse & cart pulled a load of steel bars about 20 feet long and 1000 pounds weight.  Lorries with 6-8 foot trailers were piled 15 feet high with cargo. Keep in mind, this was on a highway, as well as on the business route of the highway in towns.

It is fascinating to see how this dance of space & right of way among this array of vehicles works without choreography on city streets as well as interstate roads.  

On the return, we drove the new Indian  express way.  This was a totally different experience, as there were few vehicles. Speed limit is 100 km, and with the current low levels of daytime traffic, and high-tech cameras along the way, the toll-booth checkers are able to monitor each vehicle's speed. Each vehicle takes a ticket which has a bar code on it. At the checkpoints, the attendant scans the bar code.  At one stop, the attendant told our driver Jagdiesh that he had been traveling at 105 kph!  People still crossed the freeway on foot, but there was less variety of vehicles.  The freeway is a toll road as well, and drivers consider it expensive.  

Delhi Connections

Important Connections in New Delhi

In the nation's capital, the OSU team focused on relationships and meetings with the Indian federal government and nongovernmental organizations.  India has hit the ground running in the realm of NGOs and nonprofit organizations that are working to improve day to day life in and the future of its people.  The brain power available here is gathering together to work for the common good.  As noted before, many non-resident Indians spend time and money here to ensure progress, and many are returning to live in India to participate in government, business and education.

Government & NGOs

Mr. Reddy, Mr. Ponnala, Mr. & Mrs. Hargis

We met with the firecracker Minister of Science & Technology, Jaipal Reddy, on Tuesday, 3/19. This  wise, wry man graciously spent an hour with us and discussed everything from the current Indian Parliament session, higher education in India and the US, ground source heat pumps and unmanned aerial systems.



The Agriculture team met with the Minister of Agriculture & Food Processing of India, Sri Sharad Chandra Govindrao Pawar. They also had very productive meetings with the CEO and staff of  NABARD (National Bank of Agriculture & Rural Development), the Indian Agricultural Research Institute and the Indian Council of Agricultural Research.

Institutions

Spears Business School had the main meeting with the Asia Pacific Institute of Management. Dr. Ramesh Sharda arranged the visit and the relationship is now open for business.

Welcome and presentation at AIM

Dr. Henneberry & Mrs. Hargis with Faculty from AIM

Alumni

OSU alum Robert Rademeyer, 2004, an energy attache at the US Embassy in New Delhi, hosted us for lunch at the embassy compound on Tuesday March 19th. Robert has also been posted in Afghanistan. Robert also attended the University and Alumni Day hosted in Hyderabad with 2004 OSU classmate Brady Sidwell, VP-corporate development & strategy for OSI, who is posted in Hong Kong.

 

At the center of it all in New Delhi, India

In New Delhi, we are somehow right at the hub of news, though we are not the news.  New Delhi/Old Delhi is the largest city in the world. We are staying at the center of it all, at the ITC Maurya.  In this hotel since we arrived on 3/18 evening:

• Egyptian President Morsi and his delegation; 
• some Ministers from Zimbabwe; 
• an evening unveiling the new book "The Test of My Life" by Indian cricketer Yuvraj Singh (this was the headline on Wednesday);
• the Australian and Indian cricket teams staying here during their test match;
•  cricket fans seeking autographs and photos; and 
• various Indian politicians and their cadres. 

Professor Gopal Kakani, a true cricket fan, has scored several autographs and an autographed copy of Vuvraj Singh's book.  He is happy! MVL Prasad, OSU '83, was chagrined when he found out he asked one cricket star in the elevator, "So, do you play cricket?"

The Hargis' did NOT find the Egyptian staffers and security detail very chatty in the elevators! I on the other hand, was able to get a little more out of a few of them, when I pulled the fellow Presidential advance staffer card on them.

Dr. Shida Henneberry has run into a good friend from San Francisco here in the hotel. It's small world after all!

OSU's sensational faculty reach out to VIT students

These "man on the street" vignettes are some of my favorites so far about our fantastic OSU faculty and administrators on this trip. 

Cricket, anyone?

President Hargis plays cricket with VIT students

After meetings with VIT administration on Saturday, March 16th, our faculty made it real and fun with the VIT students.  During the campus tour, Dr. Tikalsky asked to stop the bus when he saw tons of students playing cricket at the university "playground." President Hargis, Drs. Tikalsky, Woods, Rajamani, Kakani & OSU alum MVL Prasad debarked and asked if they could play cricket with the kids.  Each of them took a swing or two with the bat, and a couple of them connected & even scored! Dr. Kakani bowled a couple as well.  The students thought this was just great, and felt really free to talk to our faculty face to face. Well-played, I say!

Dr. Henneberry

At Home with Dr. Henneberry
Meanwhile, Dr. Shida Henneberry walked through campus with our kind aide from REVA, Nagendhra. Dr. Henneberry walked into one of the girl's hostels (dorms) and visited with several students.  They invited her to see their dorm rooms, and asked her about US grad education.  She reports there was true exchange and much laughter.  Nagendhra, had to wait outside, as men are not allowed in the women's dorms.  Thanks, Nag!

Dr. Kakani with VIT students

Ag & Engineering Show

VIT Campus coffee shop menu

In another part of campus, thirsty cricketers went for a coffee on campus.  Drs. Tikalsky & Kakani and OSU alum MVL Prasad set up a talk-show set outside the coffee shop. As soon as Mr. Prasad invited the first student to sit down and talk with Tikalsky & Kakani, the kids lined up! Mr. Prasad & Dean Tikalsky repeated the scenario at a campus bus stop on the way back from dinner later that night. What a creative and spontaneous way to connect with future recruits.

Our stay at VIT was really the best connection we have had with students. We also made connections with a Massachussets General Hospital/MIT/Harvard group that was also at VIT for a conclave on entrepreneurial creativity in the health field. 

flickr.com link for more photos from India

Visit this link for more photos and back story from the Oklahoma State University delegation's trip to India: http://www.flickr.com/photos/osuceat/

March 17th-Road to Chennai

On the way to Chennai on Sunday we took in some sights.  Dipping our toes in the Bay of Bengal was a real thrill.  I have now been in all three major oceans. I am skipping the Arctic for now. When I do get there, I don't think I'll be dipping any toes in...might lose them.


Cowgirls Ann Hargis, Shida Henneberry, Julie Tikalsky, Mary Woods--toes in the Bay of Bengal!

Gopal Kakani at the Bay of Bengal "Go 'Pokes!"

Bay of Bengal baptizes Mike & Mary Woods



fresh grilled calamari-local spices

Lunch at Fisherman's Cove al fresco was a welcome moment of relaxation in our busy busy schedules. Catches of the day were calamari, snapper, lobster, tiger prawns. Local spice on the fresh catches was the choice of most, and it was incredibly delectable!

Ann & Burns Hargis @ Mamallapuram

Tikalskys at Shore Temple, Mamallapuram

We went to Mamallapuram or Mahabalipuram, a UNESCO world heritage site. This collection of monolithic creations of boulders is unbelievable. We visited the shore shrine, dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva. There are shrines, huge carved animals, frescos. The winding road through the village leads you to the other bas-reliefs and temples in this ancient port city from the 7th century. It was built by the Pallava kings. The village in Kanchipuram district is still a major site for rock sculpture of all sizes.


Transportation

If you read or hear about cities in India, you will definitely hear about traffic and transportation. The biggest consideration is the issue of population scale. But in India, the scale of the vehicle size is small, and the number of people using public or private vehicles is huge. On a Vespa-sized motor scooter it is not uncommon to see 3 adults. It is also used as family transport. One kid on the handlebars, one in between the grown-ups, one behind. Yesterday in Vellore, a scooter was used for livestock transportation; driver, then 3 goats slung over the seat, passenger in back keeping the goats on. Scooter rodeo! In the autos, or tuktuks, about 3 adults can ride in the back seat, but it is not uncommon to see at least 5, with some standing and hanging out the side, like Gene Kelly in the film "Singin' in the Rain."

For the last few days, we have ridden in a large coach bus. When we stop in traffic, the scooter riders and tuktuk passengers look up at us. Both kids and adults are inclined to stare, and want to wave. I am always happy to oblige. I have learned that the observers want me to wave first.

 

City buses are well-used on the outside and inside. The windows are open, there is no air-conditioning. More men than women seem to patronize the bus system, and the women tend to congregate in the front of the bus.  I haven't boarded a public bus, so I am not sure if this is custom, or directed by signs and rules. At rush hours (really anytime) there can be three men to a bench seat, aisles full of standing passengers, including the stairs, and passengers hanging on at the door--again like Gene Kelly.

Ann Hargis & Mary Woods at a Vellore sari shop



Ann Hargis &  Mary Woods with Harish Food Center employees, Vellore

In Vellore, Ann H, Mary W & I were hosted by Dr. Rajamani's mother for a shopping and sightseeing outing. Driving at street-level in a 5 person car is a whole different story! Buses are huge, and seem like they would scrape your mirrors off; crush you against the next vehicle, or worse.  While there are lanes, it is not really a system drivers use here.  There are signs along the roads which read, "Lane discipline saves lives" or "Reckless driving kills." It is common to have in two lanes going one direction-- 2 tuktuks, a small cargo truck, a car and 3 motor scooters.  Most vehicles are so much smaller than a standard sized US car, that they fit. Some of us have turned to the "Chaos theory" to explain the success of it--in chaos there is order. President H compared it to a flock of birds rising to fly--one bird need ,only keep track of the bird on each wing, and the tail of the bird in front. As long as the bird doesn't touch any of these birds, the whole flock is successful as one.





Please check flickr.com "OSU CEAT" for photos.

 

catching up from Vellore Institute of Technology

Hey & Howdy from Katpandi, Vellore District, Tamil Nadu state India!

We had SUCH a busy schedule in Hyderabad, then left at O dark thirty for the flight from Hyderabad for Bengaluru on Thursday 3/13.

Bangalore is a garden city with gracious green  boulevards and lovely gardens. LOTS of traffic there too! Where as the majority of Autos aka tuktuk or auto rickshaws were yellow with black roofs in Hyderabad, in Bengaluru they were yellow with green tops.

We visited REVA  Group of Institutions, which is just now becoming a full university.  We were greeted in full style of the state of Karnataka with silk hats and wooden malas (leis).  The campus is quite new, and the buildings are of light grey granite and marble, which make made the campus seem spacious and cool. It is mainly residential and has hostels (dormitories) for about 5000 of the 6000 students. There are REVA busses that run throughout the city area to bring the other students to campus.

Ann, Amulya, Mary, Namruta, Julie

Two REVA students, Amulya & Namruta, were our guides for shopping at the state's handcrafts store & bazaar.  They were very helpful and great fun! That was the first time we made a pedestrian crossing in the busy traffic.  Yikes. When Namruta and Amulya graduate in April, they will wear beautiful saris for the occasion.  Most kids were dressed western or ladies in kurti & leggings (tunics). Saris are common everywhere though, from women ditch diggers, sanitation workers to homemakers to business women.



 That night the Raju family treated us to an exceptional modern India evening on the rooftop in downtown...we had drinks outdoors in the Sky Bar the lighting was all blue, and dinner at their Tower Kitchen.  It was breezy and the ladies' shawls were all billowing in the wind. I felt like Marilyn Monroe.

Tikalskys at Sky Bar in Bengaluru

We also visited Wipro companies campus, where OSU alum hall of famer Sridhar Mitta
was Chief Technology officer. This was soooo interesting and cool! It is a big self-contained campus like Google or Pixar. We learned about Wipro's founder, Azim Premji and his foundation's good work to promote educational training for engineering professors and campuses, which is innovative here.  The foundation is also working in K-10 education all around India to make it available widely and effectively. It was so exciting to see that company's desire to take action to change the world.

Next to PES Institute which is also just recognized as a university! Two Texas A&M alums  are running that university, and it is going great guns.

Next post will be about Vellore and general reflections so far.  Off to run around the real-est India we have seen. Will post again tomorrow!

I have not had good wireless access recently, so photos haven't been uploaded to this site or flickr.com "OSU CEAT" Thanks for your patience!

Tuesday March 12- OSU Alumni & University day

Today, OSU Alumni Day and Meeting for Universities interested in exploring some sort of partnership with OSU. Busy day for the Deans & their representatives.  The ladies explored a bit if Hyderabad-Some going to a Zoroastrian temple, a handicrafts bazaar, and a boutique for kurti, salwar kameez and Saris. Now off to meet members of government and industry from Andhra Pradesh at a farm retreat in the countryside.

Our day on Monday was busy from dawn til moonrise with meetings, ceremonies and the previously mentioned evening at Taj Falakmuna. We met with  OSU alumnus IT Minister of Andhra Pradesh state Sri Ponnala Lakhsmaiah at his office, and met the press.  We were very warmly welcomed by the minister and his staff. There is lots of active press in India from live 24 hour TV news, radio, and myriad newspapers in several languages.  This made the press meet, a little overwhelming & surprising for some--Mary W. was seated practically in the middle of all the camera lenses.

 In the afternoon President H. and Mrs. H helped Minister Ponnala present achievement awards to juniors and seniors in the engineering & tech fields, partner schools and businesses that have supported a success initiative for these students.  Each of the delegation was surprised and please to receive an award for friendship and cooperation with the Andhra Pradesh Society of Knowledge Networks, which sponsored the awards and with which OSU signed a Memorandum of Understanding that morning. 

Taj Falakmuna--- Hyderabad, 3/11/13

Monday night we were hosted by an OSU alum who is Minister of Info Tech for the state of Andhra Pradesh, Sri Ponnala Lakhshmaiah, for anabsolutely incredible dinner experience at a Taj (palace) overlooking Hyderabad. It is the Taj Falaknuma and it was built in the shape of a scorpion. We ate outside on a terrace that is the tail, underneath the stinger of the scorpion.

OSU has arrived at the  Dubai International Airport! The hospitality on Emirates Air was very warm and professional.  The views of Dubai from the air were something else.  The city is carved out of the desert, and the bay area is formed from man-made  islands.  Ann H said it resembles formal gardens like Versailles or Tivoli.  Of course we met a successful and interesting OSU alumnus on the plane.  Next up-Hyderabad!